The craft

The faceting process

A finished stone is the result of many small decisions, each made by hand. These are the steps from rough to finished stone.

Selecting the rough
Each stone begins as a piece of rough, examined under strong light for color, inclusions and fractures before anything is decided.
Orienting
The rough is turned and studied to find where its color is richest and how a finished stone can sit within it. This decides the shape, the size and much of the final beauty.
Pre-forming
The outline is ground, removing flaws and setting the shape and proportions before the first facet is cut.
Cutting the pavilion
The stone is mounted on a dop and the facets of the pavilion, its lower half, are cut at precise angles. These angles return light to the eye.
Cutting the crown
The stone is transferred to a second dop and aligned, and the crown and table are cut to meet the pavilion facet for facet.
Polishing
Every facet is taken through finer and finer laps until it is mirror-bright, with crisp meeting points and no visible scratches.
Inspection
The finished stone is cleaned and examined, then weighed and measured before it is photographed and offered.

At the bench

The tools are few, and each is used with care.

Faceting machine
Holds the stone at an exact angle and index, so each facet can be placed and repeated precisely.
Laps
Flat rotating discs, from coarse cutting laps to fine polishing laps, each used in turn.
Dops and transfer jig
Hold the stone while it is cut, and move it from pavilion to crown without losing alignment.
Loupe and light
Used at every stage to check the meeting points, the polish and the stone itself.

For more about the stones themselves, their treatments and their care: read the gemstone guides.

Stones that have passed through every step, offered and archived.